Quite near

Downstairs a drama is unfolding.

In my bedroom there is a mosquito on the window, it makes thumping sounds as it runs into the glass, in angular curves, like the ones on a cardiogram, moves from one corner to the next. I'm in bed, arms under a pillow, and I'm watching it. There is not much choice for the mosquito to go elsewhere, the window is closed. I'd give it a moment before it will sense there is warm blood on the pillow, an easy reach. The sky is all grey, thick grey, it makes the mosquito look grey too.

A man with a pistol walks out of the hallway, starts to pace in front of the building.

The wine last night has left me with the disinclination to get out of bed too early. It was a good red, too good to stop at a glass. I baked a loaf of Russian rye and there were well-aged Dutch farmer's cheese, butter, a couple of soft-boiled eggs that trod on the edge of hard, and the remnants of an OK, store-bought roast chicken. We both agreed we could have made a better chicken ourselves, but we'd been too hungry to wait I suppose. Anyway, all that was dinner, and it was delicious. We had it on the floor, with the balcony door open, 'a picnic'. 

Downstairs police cars are everywhere, a security cordon around the entrance. The man has fired the pistol. Sirens break through the glass, come to a halt quite near. I wonder what may be wrong, eyes tracking the mosquito's ups and downs along the window frame.

The phone buzzes, but it's so far away, on the computer desk. The thought of getting up and out from under the warm blanket isn't so agreeable right now, it's my free day after six days of work. I'll get out of bed when the mosquito has finally reached me, I'm thinking. The phone buzzes again, makes me curious. I'm now willing the mosquito to finally get close enough to be annoying, so I have a good reason to make a move myself. Now it starts ringing. I'm getting up.

It's 12 p.m. on the phone clock, plus two messages and a missed call from Anthony. There is a shooting right in front of our building, says one, and a link to a Dutch news site in the other. I stare at the phone screen, make out that at least no one is injured.

I sit back down on the bed to call back Anthony. We exchange a few incredulous can-you-believe-its. After I hang up I reach for a newspaper by the bed and swat at the mosquito. Got him. Then I open the window and go to the kitchen. I set the kettle on and as I wait I cut a thick slice of the rye bread from last night to go with my coffee. I'll spread honey on it now. It's my favourite most comforting Russian bread -- Borodynsky.

Borodynsky Bread

Adapted from Bread Matters, by Andrew Whitley

Makes 1 large sandwich loaf

This is a beautiful bread: hearty, moist, dark, dense, intensely sour and flavoured with coriander seeds. Somebody I know even compared it to beer, something to do with the floral coriander seeds. It's certainly the most consumed bread in Russia, I grew up on it. Some time ago a great idea descended on me to make my own Borodynsky. Now I have a tub with rye sourdough starter in the fridge, I'm starting to think of it as a pet, I only need to name it. Alriiiiight. 

The process is really straightforward. You need the aforementioned rye sourdough starter that will require four days to fully come to life. Then you make a production sourdough, which is going to be more active than the starter itself, and which will be used, as the name suggests, for the production of the bread. And then you make the main dough. Frankly, it's almost a one-bowl operation, save for a tub and a loaf tin.

For the rye sourdough starter

100 g dark rye flour

200 g very warm water (40 C)

For the production sourdough

100 g rye sourdough starter

300 g dark rye flour

600 g very warm water (40 C)

For the dough

540 g production sourdough (the rest can be mixed into the sourdough starter as a “feed”)

460 g dark rye flour

10 g fine sea salt

40 g unsulphured molasses

180 g warm water

2 teaspoons whole coriander seeds, divided use

To make the rye sourdough starter:

On day 1 mix 25 g of dark rye flour with 50 g of warm water in a large jar or a plastic tub with a lid. Keep out of the fridge. On day 2,3,4 continue adding another 25 g of dark rye flour and 50 g of warm water. The starter will get a little bubbly, and that's of course a very good thing. After the last feeding let the starter ferment for another 24 hours out of the fridge before moving on to the next step to make the production sourdough.

To make the production sourdough:

Mix 100 g of the rye sourdough starter with the dark rye flour and warm water in a large plastic tub. The rest of the rye sourdough starter can be stored in the fridge, and fed with 25 g of dark rye flour and 50 g of warm water once every 2-3 days, and at least 24 hours ahead of your next Borodynsky loaf.

Let the production starter ferment, out of the fridge and for about 12 hours. Place a bowl underneath the tub in the (likely) event the production starter overflows; it will get very bubbly.

To make the dough:

Thoroughly oil a bread loaf tin about 23 x 13 cm. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of slightly crushed coriander seeds over the bottom of the tin.

In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients together. It will be a very sticky mass. Wet your hands and place the mixture in the tin. Even it out, cover loosely (a clean plastic bag works well) and leave to prove until the dough has increased in size by about one third. This can take up to 4-5 hours.

Preheat the oven to 220 C. When the dough is ready, sprinkle another teaspoon of lightly crushed coriander seeds over the top. Bake for 10 minutes, then turn the oven down to 200 C and bake for further 40 minutes.

Remove from the oven and let rest for 5-10 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack. If necessary, run a sharp knife along the sides of the tin to ease the bread out. Cool completely before storing (wrapped in cling film). Borodynsky is best the day after baking.

I am loyal...to my dreams and fantasies.

Saturday morning. Nearly dawn.

Usually I sleep in on Saturdays; this Saturday, however, I wanted to play differently. So I got up and set out for one of a few places in Moscow that are extremely dear to me.

'Volkonsky' bakery. I love absolutely everything about it. Its welcoming atmosphere, its homey spirits, its divine bread and pastry, a cosy cafй seated in its premises, the stylish kitchenware on sale, its location in the heart of old Moscow. Absolutely everything, I'm telling you. I remember how at the first moment I stepped in the bakery, the exhilarating aroma of fresh bread wrapped me up on the spot. I only had to close my eyes for a second to breathe in the goodness and wake up my imagination. And before long I saw myself on a green meadow with lots of flowers-in-bloom. A gentle wind danced with the sunshine in the air. I'd have a baggy yellowish cotton dress on and silky scarf to cover my hair, a good book to feed my mind and a piece of fresh goat's cheese sandwiched among the bread goodness to satisfy my hunger. And then I heard a bakery girl's voice addressing me...I smiled and at that moment I knew I would be their loyal customer.

So, this Saturday I went for such an early trek to meet my 'darling' (in reference to the aforementioned vicinity. Smile.) for a reason. I fancied a warming saturday breakfast at home with a fresh, right-away-from-the-oven baguette. Crispy, with soft and airy crumb, slightly buttered, topped with cherry spread or honey and accompanied by a cup of home-brewed coffee. Oh. For me that's the dickens of a leisurely breakfast.

So, you see, I slept less. But I got more. What so special did I get, you'll ask. I got my fantasy realised. I got a morning walk through the oldest part of Moscow when she was still deserted, half asleep half awake. I got my spirits rejuvenated. I got a whole day ahead.

*‘Volkonsky’ (in co-operation with ‘Maison Kaiser’) bakeries
Maroseika str. 4/2 (this is where my ‘darling’ located)
Tel: +007(495) 721 14 42

Bol’shaya Sadovaya str. 2/46
Tel: +007(495) 699 36 20

My imperfect elegant baguettes - a good reason for a smile!

When it’s gloomy outside (and it’s been so in Moscow lately), one of the things that could (re)charge me is a good laugh. Not just ha-ha-ha, but a good belly laugh that would brush off all my restraints, worries and unease stocked in the corners of my mind throughout the winter. Time has come to shake it off, point!

This girl said, this girl did. A visit to the Puppets House on Saturday (I even wasn’t the oldest among its visitors), and much fun throughout the whole weekend in my kitchen. To play around in a kitchen is one of my greatest anti-dotes against the gloominess. For me food is more than a passion, it’s a way to express myself. So, I wanted a laugh - I got it. And in between I went through a baguette-a-thon (isn’t it eloquent enough? *giggles*). My baguette-a-thon is an ongoing event, for every weekend within the last months I’ve been lounging a baguette making campaign with a purpose to learn HOW to bake a damn good home-made baguette. Until now there’ve been only the mishaps. Though every single time after I goof something up I learn what I must not do in the future and this is how one actually learns, right? Or you think I’m in denial? *wink, wink, wink*

By now I’ve made lots of research on baguettes already (and yes, I still keep messing it up), and have picked and incorporated two recipes* in one which, to my mind, can serve me good – though they do not…yet. *wink, wink, wink*

*****BAGUETTES*****

Yields 3-4

Ingredients:
550 g strong unbleached flour
1 tsp active dry yeast
2 tsp sea salt
300-400 ml warm water
1 egg, well beaten and mixed with 1 Tsp cold water

Method:

1. In a large bowl, combine 150 g flour, 1 tsp yeast and 2 tsp sea salt. Stir in 400 ml warm water and beat until well blended using a stand mixer with a dough hook attachment. Using a wooden spoon, stir in as much of the remaining flour as you can.

2..On a lightly floured surface, knead in enough flour to make stiff dough that is smooth and elastic. Knead for about 8 to 10 minutes total. Shape into a ball. Place dough in a greased bowl, and turn once. Cover, and let it rise in a warm place until doubled. My dough happened to be rising overnight. And judging the way I took care of the dough, I must admit I might be a very good parent one day. *smiles* To create a warm environment I wrapped up the bowl with the dough in a woollen blanket, I patted a bundle affectionately and sang it lullabies. When I unwrapped it in the morning the dough aroma was just divine. Sourish, alive…it practically smiled at me!

3. Punch the dough down and divide in half. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes. Roll each half into a large rectangle. Roll up, starting from a long side. Moisten edges with water and seal. Taper the ends. (Is there any other way to shape a baguette as I seem to misunderstand how to do it just right and relatively easy??)

4. Grease a large baking sheet and sprinkle with cornmeal. Place the loaves, seam side down, on the prepared baking sheet. Lightly beat the egg with 1 tbsp of water and brush on. Cover with a damp cloth. Let rise until it has nearly doubled, around 35 to 40 minutes (or even more if your kitchen isn’t warm enough). Warning: I covered the loaves with a damp cloth and it glued so hard to the loaves, that I had really hard times to move the stuck cloth away. As a result the surface of the baguettes is uneven. *sigh*

5. With a very sharp knife (this is where my new chef’s knife came in oh-so-handy), make 3 or 4 diagonal cuts about 1/4 inch deep across the top of each loaf. Bake in a preheated 190 C (375 F) oven for 20 minutes. Brush again with egg mixture. Bake for an additional 15 to 20 minutes or until the bread tastes done. If necessary, cover loosely with foil to prevent over browning. Remove from the baking sheet and cool on a wire rack.

These baguettes were mishaps in appearances (again! *wink, wink*), though pretty much edible and tasty and with soooo crispy crust (Yum!); this is where this don’t-judge-a-book-by-its-cover concept steps in to bang the drum for my sake. *wink* Ta da da da!

Oh, and of course my baguette-a-thon isn’t finished yet. I know one day I will make a flawless loaf. I simply know it!

I had fun this weekend. I really did.

And before I call my Tuesday a day (Tuesdays, you never cut me a slack and yet I love thee!) I want to take this opportunity to express my utter gratitude to Cookiemouse of Cookiemouse for awarding me with the Excellence Blog Award.



My first award thus far!!! And as the legend has it now I’ve got to pass a trophy to other 5 excellent food bloggers – I’m always in tatters when it comes to choosing among so many outstanding people running their blogs. Ok, no further ado. The award goes to:
1) Tiina of Cinnamonda for having an excellent sense of taste and creating marvellous dishes – both sweet and savoury!!
2) Kate of Aaplemint for her cooking talent that seems to be innate and stunning photography!!
3) Michele of Oswego Tea for inspiration, motivation, great sense of humour and such a beautiful writing!!
4) Marieke of Trifles.nl for creating a cosy (‘gezellig’ in dutch) atmosphere of a small dutch patisserie in her kitchen!!
5) Ximena of Lobstersquad for her fabulous drawings and smart and humorous narration!!

*One of the recipes you can find here and the other in Mireille Guiliano’s Book

SUCCESS!

UPDATE: LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, I AM PROUD TO ANNOUNCE THAT TODAY I'VE HAD A VERY SUCCESSFUL DAY: I BAKED NAAN AGAIN AND THIS TIME I CAN CALL IT A REAL FLAT BREAD (not a cracker)!! *a very proud smile*

P.S. 2-3 mins under the grill/in the oven on each side is fairly time for naan rather than 10 mins on one side alone (as I did at first). The rest (both ingredients and method) is the same. *Phew*

P.P.S. It paired sooooooo good with Heidi's Curried Egg Salad! Mmmhhhhh...

A Leap Day, thus Unresolved Naan. Huh?

'A leaping photo '

An extract from my notebook says:

‘Things to do at home after work today in the evening:
1. To make Naan Bread.
2. NOT to burn down my kitchen (people, on a leap day I always have to be extra careful *smiles*)
3. To clean up the mess in my kitchen after I’ve made Naan.’

This is to declare I fully stuck to each paragraph written down. Yes, you may rightly think I followed the recipe word for word and step by step (well, ALMOST ! *sheepish expression on my face*), I didn’t burn down the kitchen and I cleaned it up neatly after storming up the Naan Bread making process. But as a result it wasn’t exactly Naan (I believe it’s a leap day to blame not me *wink, wink, wink*), though I absolutely loved what I eventually got! *a smile from ear to ear*.

I’m chuffed and yet confused. Huh? Yeah, what you think, a girl made pseudo-Naan (and this is what confuses her) but it tastes so damn gooooooooood (and that’s why she is chuffed!) So without further ado I’m titling my newly-made as A Pseudo-Naan Cracker and laying out the recipe.

****Pseudo-Naan Crackers*****

Yields 5-6 crackers

Ingredients:

1 cup all-purpose flour + 1/3 cup fine cornmeal (this is the only derivation from the original recipe – which featured 250 g plain flour - I undertook. Do you think it might be the reason of my successful failure*?)

½ tsp salt

½ tsp baking powder

2 tsp sugar

150 ml whole milk

2 Tsp vegetable oil

Sunflower seeds

Method:
1. In a medium bowl, combine all dry ingredients. Stir to mix.
2. In small bowl, combine milk and oil together. Stir well.
3. Make a well in a flour mixture and carefully pour milk mixture in it.
4. Carefully mix together the dough by starting from the centre and gradually incorporate the flour from the well edges.
5. Knead well for 8-10 mins (time to shake off a few calories *wink*). If the dough is too sticky, add a bit flour at a time.
6. Put a kneaded dough in a slightly oiled bowl, cover with a damp clean kitchen towel and place in a warm place to rise (eventually it should double in size). It may take an hour or even more (depending on how warm the place is).
7. Preheat the oven/grill (I used an oven) to its maximum temperature and put a baking sheet on the upper shelf.
8. When the dough is doubled in size divide it into 5 equal balls. Roll out each dough ball on lightly floured surface to an oval or tear-shaped form. Don’t make it too thin (this is what I did actually. Hm.) Sprinkle over sunflower seeds and press into dough.
9. Put naan breads on a baking sheet (I covered it with slightly oiled parchment *a giggle*). I used an oven rather than a grill (do not owe one now) and it took me a bit more time until naan bread cracker cooked (about 8 mins versus 1-2 mins as said in the original recipe).
10. Naan breads are best served hot (or warm). Pseudo-Naan Crackers are best when cooled down. *smiles* Divine with fresh soft goat's cheese and a drizzle of honey. The variations are virtually endless.

What’s amazing is that these crackers taste absolutely the same as the savoury crackers I loved in my childhood. So crispy and slightly sweetish, yum! Isn’t it funny how an Indian bread recipe brought up dear childhood memories? A leap day is hilarious, I’m telling you!

*Lately it seems to be a trend in a food-blogging world. Take a look here at Tiina’s post or here at Nicky’s

P.S. Being a stubborn (???) person I’ve made some research on naan bread in general, collated a few more recipes, analysed my likely mistakes (you think there are any? *a smile and puppy eyes*) and arrived to a conclusion I’m going to keep on trying until I put things just RIGHT (will keep you posted on my progress!) There, I’ve declared it and may now retreat! *smiles*